Alternative Baker Read online

  Serve the warm blintzes with the berries, maple syrup and a dollop of yogurt.

  Extra blintzes keep brilliantly, fried or unfried, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 2 months.

  APPLE, BUCKWHEAT AND GRUYÈRE PUFF PANCAKE

  {SWEET RICE, BUCKWHEAT, OAT}

  My sole New Year’s resolution for the past five years has been “eat more dessert,” specifically, dessert made by someone else. I tend to eschew sweets when out and about, knowing there are usually goodies waiting for us back at home. But tasting what other cooks get up to in the kitchen is endlessly inspiring, thus the resolution. One January 1st, my request was answered. A few musician friends came over to welcome the New Year with tunes and comestibles. My friend’s mother, Barbara, who was visiting from the Provençal village in which she lives, brought over a tub of buttery, caramelized apples and a container of batter, which she put together and popped into the oven. We feasted on apple puff pancake laced with cinnamon and lemon, and Barbara kindly shared her recipe with me. Barbara often adds slices of Brie cheese to her pancake, which is pure genius.

  Here, I’ve adapted Barbara’s recipe to work with alternative grains—oat flour for starchy sweetness, buckwheat for nutty flavor, and sweet rice for binding power—and added some cave-aged Gruyère (though sharp Cheddar or Brie work beautifully, too). The salty cheese sets off the sweet, caramelized apples brightened with lemon, the batter puffs up, forming a crackly crust that flakes as it cools, and if you’re like us, you’ll be stealing into the kitchen to sneak slices from the pan at all hours of the day—and year.

  MAKES 4 SERVINGS

  APPLES AND CHEESE

  1 lb (450 g) tart, firm baking apples (such as Granny Smith; about 2 large or 4 medium)

  4 tbsp (56 g) unsalted butter

  ¼ cup (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar

  2 tbsp (30 ml) lemon juice

  1 tsp ground cinnamon

  ⅛ tsp fine sea salt

  3–4 oz (56–84 g) thinly sliced cave-aged Gruyère cheese (or sharp Cheddar or Brie)

  BATTER

  ¼ cup (35 g) sweet white rice flour

  ¼ cup (30 g) buckwheat flour

  ¼ cup (25 g) GF oat flour

  1 tbsp (12 g) organic granulated cane sugar

  ½ tsp fine sea salt

  4 large eggs

  1 cup (235 ml) whole milk

  FOR SERVING (OPTIONAL)

  Maple syrup or powdered sugar

  Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 425°F (220°C).

  To prepare the apples, peel them, cut their flesh off the core, and slice them about ⅜-inch (1-cm) thick; you should have about 2¾ cups (412 g).

  Melt the butter in a 10-inch (25-cm) ovenproof skillet (such as a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet) over medium-high heat. Add the apples and sprinkle with the sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon and salt. Cook, turning the apples occasionally with a metal spatula, until the apples are tender and their juices thicken, 8–10 minutes, decreasing the heat as needed.

  Meanwhile, to make the batter, sift the sweet rice, buckwheat and oat flours with the sugar and salt into a large bowl. Whisk in the eggs 2 at a time, whisking until smooth, then gradually whisk in the milk to form a loose batter. If the batter is lumpy, strain it through a medium-mesh sieve. (Alternatively, throw everything in a blender and blend until smooth, about 1 minute.)

  When the apples are cooked, give them a final stir, top them with the sliced cheese, and pour the batter over the top. Immediately transfer to the oven and bake until the pancake is puffed, golden and cooked through, 18–28 minutes, decreasing the oven temperature if the sides are browning too quickly and rotating the pancake halfway through for even baking.

  Remove from the oven, cut into wedges, and serve hot or warm with maple syrup, if desired. Leftovers keep well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 2 days. Reheat in a 350°F (175°C) oven for best results.

  NOTE: For a strictly sweet version, leave off the cheese and serve the pancake sprinkled with powdered sugar or drizzled with maple syrup and topped with a plume of Whipped Cream.

  PUMPKIN CRANBERRY NUT AND SEED LOAF

  {OATS}

  This loaf was inspired by the Adventure Bread made at Josey Baker’s The Mill in San Francisco, home of the infamous four-dollar toast. His adventure bread is packed with nuts, seeds and oats, held together by psyllium husk, chia seeds and flaxseeds, moistened with water, vegetable oil and maple syrup. Once you’ve sourced the ingredients (available in bulk at most health food stores), the bread is incredibly simple to mix up and bake. A loaf keeps, refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks. At first glance, the recipe seems impossible, as though it shouldn’t work; but mix it all up, let it rest for a few hours, and bake it and you’ll soon find yourself as hooked as I am.

  I’ve updated Baker’s loaf with the fall flavors of pumpkin, cranberries, walnuts and pepitas, and a hint of warming spices. Slices are heavenly when toasted and spread with whipped cream cheese, but the bread isn’t so sweet that you couldn’t use it to make toasted cheese sandwiches or to wrap around slices of leftover Thanksgiving turkey.

  MAKES ONE 9 BY 5-INCH (23 BY 13–CM) LOAF

  1½ cups (175 g) raw walnut halves

  1 cup (140 g) raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)

  2¾ cups (250 g) GF old-fashioned rolled oats

  1 cup (145 g) dried cranberries

  ½ cup (90 g) flaxseeds

  ⅓ cup (30 g) psyllium husks

  ¼ cup (40 g) chia seeds

  2 tsp (9 g) fine sea salt

  ¾ tsp ground cinnamon

  ½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg

  1 (15-oz [425-g]) can unsweetened pumpkin puree

  1 cup (235 ml) water

  ¼ cup (60 ml) maple syrup

  ¼ cup (60 ml) sunflower oil (or light olive oil)

  Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Spread the walnuts and pumpkin seeds on a small, rimmed baking sheet and toast until golden and fragrant, shuffling the pan occasionally, 10–15 minutes. Remove from the oven.

  Meanwhile, in a large bowl, stir together the oats, cranberries, flaxseeds, psyllium husks, chia seeds, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg to combine. Stir in the hot walnuts and pumpkin seeds. Add the pumpkin puree, water, maple syrup and sunflower oil and stir well with a sturdy wooden spoon or your hands to make sure the “dough” is moistened through and evenly distributed.

  Line a 9 by 5–inch (23 by 13–cm) loaf pan on all sides with parchment paper and scrape the dough into the prepared pan, packing it in and rounding it slightly on top; it won’t rise in the oven. Cover tightly with a piece of plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 2–8 hours.

  When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Bake the loaf for 1 hour and 15 minutes; it will be deeply bronzed on top and feel firm to the touch. Let cool completely, at least 2 hours. The bread is best sliced fairly thinly and toasted well. It will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to 2 weeks.

  TART CHERRY, CHOCOLATE AND HEMPSEED NO-BAKE OAT BARS {VEGAN}

  {OATS}

  My mom, who’s a bit of a health nut (understatement), used to disparage an ex by saying, “He ate COOKIES for BREAKFAST!” as if there were no worse crime. Call me rebellious, but I’m a fan of cookies for breakfast, particularly if there’s chocolate involved, and that’s essentially what these no-bake granola bars are.

  I always assumed no-bake bars were inferior to the baked variety, but Laura of the blog Tutti Dolci changed my mind when she mixed hers up with plenty of almond butter and topped them with a smear of salted chocolate. I like mine with a dose of dried tart cherries, buttery hempseeds and crunchy cacao nibs, though feel free to switch up the nuts, seeds and fruit as you see fit; the recipe is quite forgiving. If you’re anything like me, you’ll find yourself dipping into your stash … any time of day.

  MAKES 16 SMALL BUT RICH BARS

  BARS

  1 cup (235 ml) smooth, unsalted almond butter (preferably at room t
emperature, stirred if separated)

  ½ cup (120 ml) maple syrup

  2 tsp (10 ml) vanilla extract

  ¼ tsp fine sea salt

  2½ cups (225 g) GF old-fashioned rolled oats

  ½ cup (55 g) unblanched sliced almonds

  ½ cup (70 g) dried tart cherries (or cranberries)

  ¼ cup (30 g) hulled hempseeds

  ¼ cup (30 g) cacao nibs

  TOPPING

  1 tbsp (15 ml) extra-virgin coconut oil

  ¾ cup (130 g) chopped bittersweet chocolate

  Flaky salt such as Maldon, cacao nibs and hempseeds, for sprinkling

  To make the bars, in a large bowl, whisk together the almond butter, maple syrup, vanilla and salt until smooth. Set aside.

  Place the oats in a wide, heavy-bottomed skillet set over low heat and toast until golden and fragrant, 8–12 minutes, stirring frequently. Pour the warm oats into the bowl with the almond butter mixture. Wipe out the skillet and add the almonds, toasting over low heat and stirring frequently until golden and fragrant, 4–6 minutes. Add the almonds to the bowl with the oats, then add the dried cherries, hempseeds and cacao nibs. Use a flexible spatula to fold the mixture until well combined. Let sit until cool enough to handle, 5–10 minutes.

  Line an 8-inch (20-cm) square pan with a sling of parchment paper, leaving an overhang on each side to use as handles. Scrape in the oat mixture and use damp hands to pack the mixture firmly into an even layer.

  To make the topping, place the coconut oil and chocolate in a small saucepan and set it over the lowest possible heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof silicone spatula until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Pour the melted chocolate over the bars, and tilt the pan gently to coat it in an even layer; there will be just enough. Sprinkle the top with a few small pinches of flaky salt and several large pinches of cacao nibs and hempseeds. Chill the bars until firm, at least 2 hours and up to 1 day.

  Loosen the edges of the bar with a small, offset spatula or the tip of a knife, and use the parchment handles to lift it up and out of the pan and onto a cutting board. Use a large, sharp chef’s knife to cut 16 squares.

  Store the bars airtight in the refrigerator; they will soften if left at room temperature. They are crispest on the day of making but will keep well for up to 5 days.

  NOTE: Natural nut butters often come with a slick of oil at the top of the jar, so be sure to give yours a good stir before you get started measuring.

  ROASTED BANANA TEFF SCONES WITH MUSCOVADO SUGAR GLAZE

  {SWEET RICE, TEFF, OAT}

  These decadent scones are filled with the malty flavors of teff flour, molasses and roasted banana, with toothsome heft from whole grains and pecans. The scones themselves are minimally sweet to contrast a butterscotch-y muscovado sugar glaze that was inspired by a recipe from the West Oakland brunch spot Brown Sugar Kitchen.

  MAKES 8 SCONES

  ROASTED BANANAS AND PECANS

  3 large bananas (1¼ lb [570 g] in peel)

  2 tbsp (25 g) packed light or dark muscovado sugar (or organic brown sugar)

  1 tbsp (14 g) unsalted butter

  ¾ cup (90 g) raw pecan halves

  SCONES

  1 cup (155 g) sweet white rice flour

  ¾ cup (100 g) teff flour, plus more for shaping the scones

  ¼ cup (25 g) GF oat flour

  2 tbsp (25 g) packed light or dark muscovado sugar (or organic brown sugar)

  1 tbsp (15 g) baking powder

  ½ tsp fine sea salt

  5 tbsp (70 g) cold, unsalted butter, sliced

  ½ cup (120 ml) cold, heavy cream, plus another 1–7 tbsp (15–105 ml), as needed

  1 large egg

  1 tsp vanilla extract

  GLAZE

  ¼ cup (25 g) organic powdered sugar

  3 tbsp (45 ml) heavy cream

  1 tbsp (14 g) unsalted butter

  ¼ cup (50 g) packed light or dark muscovado sugar (or organic brown sugar)

  ½ tsp vanilla extract

  ⅛ tsp fine sea salt

  Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). To prepare the bananas and pecans, peel the bananas, slice them into ½-inch (1.3-cm) rounds, and place them on a small baking sheet lined with parchment paper for easy cleanup. Sprinkle with the muscovado sugar and dot with the butter. Roast in the oven until the bananas are golden and tender, 20–30 minutes, flipping them once halfway through roasting and being gentle with them so they stay intact. Remove from the oven, immediately scrape into a shallow, heatproof bowl, and refrigerate until completely chilled, at least 20 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 350°F (175°C). Spread the pecans on a small, rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven until fragrant and crisp, 8–10 minutes. Let cool completely, then break up into rough quarters.

  Meanwhile, to make the scones, in a large bowl, combine the sweet rice, teff and oat flours with 2 tablespoons (25 g) muscovado sugar, baking powder and salt. Add the butter and blend with a pastry cutter or your fingertips until the butter is broken down into the size of small peas. Chill this mixture until cold, 15–30 minutes. In a measuring pitcher, whisk together the ½ cup (120 ml) cream, egg and vanilla and refrigerate until needed. Increase the oven temperature to 425°F (220°C). Stack a rimmed baking sheet atop a second rimmed baking sheet and line with parchment paper (this will keep the bottoms from over-browning).

  Add the cooled pecans and bananas to the butter/flour mixture and toss gently to combine. Gradually add the cream mixture, working with a flexible silicone spatula until the dough holds together when you give it a squeeze; you may need to add 1–6 tablespoons (15–90 ml) more cream to properly hydrate the dough. Knead the dough 20 or so times in the bowl to form a ball; unlike wheat scones, these gluten-free scones require more kneading to bring the dough together, so don’t be shy. Cover and refrigerate the dough for 15 minutes or up to several hours.

  Place the dough on a board dusted lightly with teff flour. Dust the top of the dough round lightly with more teff flour, and use clean, dry hands to pat it into a 7-inch (18-cm) round, 1¼ inches (3 cm) high. Use a sharp chef’s knife to cut the round into 8 wedges, and use a thin metal spatula or bench scraper to transfer the scones to the lined baking sheet, spacing them 3 inches (7 cm) apart. Brush the tops of the scones with 1 tablespoon (15 ml) cream. Bake the scones until deeply golden and firm to the touch, 18–25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool until barely warm; they are still cooking from residual heat.

  While the scones bake, make the glaze. Sift the powdered sugar into a small bowl and set aside. In a small saucepan placed over medium-low heat, melt together the cream, butter, muscovado sugar, vanilla and salt to dissolve the sugar, stirring occasionally, 3 minutes. Pour the hot cream mixture into the powdered sugar and whisk smooth. Let cool to a spreadable consistency, 30–60 minutes. Spoon and spread the glaze over the cooled scones and let it set for 20 minutes or so to firm. These are the best the day of baking, but extras keep for 1–2 days.

  MAPLE ORANGE AMARANTH GRANOLA

  {OATS, AMARANTH}

  Homemade granola is worlds away from the store-bought stuff; even expensive brands tend to taste stale and rancid compared to fresh-baked. This granola tastes like a big, crunchy oatmeal cookie studded with bits of crispy popped amaranth that gives the granola a toasty flavor reminiscent of popcorn. A hot skillet and amaranth seeds are all you’ll need to make a bowl of tiny, popped grains; these tend to burn easily, so have extra on hand just in case. The maple, orange and vanilla create a bright, floral flavor not unlike the honey that was traditionally mixed with amaranth by the ancient Aztecs for use in religious rituals. But maple keeps the granola crisper than does honey, which is hygroscopic (which means that it grabs moisture from out of the air), thus maple is a better choice for granola. Either way, a bowl of this crunchy cereal topped with fresh fruit and good yogurt or almond milk is a religious experience.

  You’ll need two rimmed baking sheets that stack and a couple of pieces of parc
hment paper to bake this granola. Spreading the uncooked granola into the pan in a thin layer, then covering it with parchment and a second sheet pan, eliminates the need to stir the granola as it bakes, and it ensures fat clusters that clump, almost like a thin granola bar. The salt level here seems high, but it ensures full-flavored granola. Do be sure to use fine sea salt or kosher salt, not table salt or an unrefined salt with lots of ocean flavor. And do be sure to give the raw granola a good stir to evenly distribute the salt.

  MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS (600 G)

  6 tbsp (70 g) whole, raw amaranth seeds

  2½ cups (270 g) GF old-fashioned rolled oats

  1 cup (110 g) unblanched, sliced almonds

  ¼ cup (40 g) maple sugar (or packed organic light brown sugar)

  ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90 ml) maple syrup

  ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (85 g) melted, unsalted butter

  ¾ tsp fine sea salt (not table salt)

  1 tsp vanilla extract

  Finely grated zest from 1 large orange

  Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C).

  Heat a medium, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat until very hot (I use an 8-inch [20-cm] cast-iron skillet). Add 2 teaspoons (23 g) of the amaranth seeds and shuffle the pan so they’re in a single layer; they should begin popping immediately. Shake the pan frequently, every few seconds, and keep the amaranth in a single layer, until about half of the seeds have popped and the rest are golden in color. Tip these into a large bowl. Repeat until you’ve popped all the amaranth.

  To the bowl of popped amaranth, add the oats, almonds, maple sugar, maple syrup, melted butter, salt, vanilla and orange zest. Stir very well to combine, making sure to evenly distribute the salt and amaranth seeds.