Alternative Baker Page 5
Scrape the mixture onto the lined baking sheet, and spread it into a thin sheet. Ideally, the edges will be slightly thicker than the center, as they will bake faster. Lay the second piece of parchment over the granola, and place the second sheet pan on top, right side up, making a little granola sandwich.
Slide the whole thing into the oven and bake for 20 minutes. Rotate and continue baking for 10–20 minutes for a total of 30–40 minutes, peeking under the parchment to make sure the edges aren’t burning, until the granola is a rich golden brown. It will still be soft, but should crisp up as it cools. If the granola is still soft after cooling, break it up and return it, uncovered, to a low oven (around 150°F [65°C]) and let it dry out for 20 minutes or so.
Let the granola cool completely in the sheet pan sandwich, 1–2 hours, then break up into large sheets or clumps and store in an airtight container for up to 1 month.
NOTE: To make this vegan, trade the melted butter for 5 tablespoons (75 ml) sunflower oil, melted coconut oil or light olive oil.
CAKE
Alternative flours have the power to create cakes full of moisture and tenderness that wheat-based cakes can only dream of. Here, there are none of the pitfalls of all-purpose flour, which can toughen when overworked and obliterate flavors with bland starches. From rustic skillet cakes to refined roulades, the cakes in this chapter explode with the tastes of whole grains, natural sweeteners and peak-of-season produce. Liqueurs, creams, herbs, spices and compotes build layers, making each cake well worth its calories in gustatory pleasure.
Here you’ll find a cake for every occasion. There are Bundt cakes, rolled cakes, upside-down cakes and layer cakes. There are spring berries Blueberry Lemon Verbena Bundt Cake with Vanilla Bean Glaze, summer stone fruit Chai-Spiced Nectarine Skillet Cake, fall pomes Chestnut Roulade Cake with Rum, Mascarpone and Roasted Pears, and winter citrus Petite Blood Orange Cornmeal Upside-Down Cake.
Vanilla cupcakes get an update from millet and oat flours. Sorghum flour adds textural interest to a chocolate zucchini cake slathered in cream cheese frosting laced with grass-green matcha. Cozy up with a cup of tea and an olive oil pear cake studded with chocolate, rosemary and flaky salt for an eye-opening pick-me-up. And for special occasions, turn to a twist on a berry layer cake topped with mascarpone, or a spiced persimmon number slathered with whiskey cream cheese frosting.
VANILLA CHIFFON CAKE
{SWEET RICE, MILLET, OAT}
During my stint at pastry school, we spent what felt like an inordinate amount of time on cakes. Genoise, chiffon, angel food, white cakes, yellow cakes … they all tasted bland and boring to me. And they’re supposed to. These light, spongy cakes are designed to soak up flavors from other ingredients, making the possibilities endless. I find chiffon to be the easiest and most foolproof, with a moist, springy crumb that gets a double lift from baking powder and whipped egg whites. Here, millet and oat flours add their nutty, buttery flavors with subtle flecks of grain, while sweet rice flour helps maintain an airy crumb that no one would EVER guess was gluten-free. Sunflower oil gives it a slightly warm, clean flavor along with a good dose of vanilla. You might think that being made with vegetable oil would put chiffon at a disadvantage, but au contraire: unlike butter-based cakes, chiffon stays soft even when chilled, making it ideal for cream-filled cakes and custards that need refrigeration.
Unlike the refined wheat cakes from pastry school, slices of this version are tasty enough to serve on their own alongside mugs of tea or coffee, dusted with powdered sugar, or dolloped with whipped cream and fresh berries. For special occasions, it can be sliced into thirds horizontally, brushed with liqueurs or syrups, and layered with favorite fillings or frostings. Cut it into strips, soak it with coffee-nocino syrup and layer it with whipped mascarpone and shaved chocolate for an easy tiramisù. In slightly different configurations, it becomes a base for rolled cakes filled with jam, berries or rhubarb preserves, a boozy chestnut-pear roulade, a bright citrus trifle and a killer tres leches cake doused with rum and smothered in fresh mango.
MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20-CM) ROUND CAKE
¼ cup (60 ml) sunflower oil (or other neutral oil)
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90 ml) water
3 large egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla extract
½ cup plus 2 tbsp (120 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (55 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (50 g) millet flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (40 g) oat flour
1¼ tsp (6 g) baking powder
½ tsp fine sea salt
5 large egg whites (½ cup plus 2 tbsp [150 ml]), at room temperature
¼ tsp cream of tartar
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Line an ungreased 8-inch (20-cm) round cake pan with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit.
In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, water, egg yolks and vanilla, then whisk in the ½ cup (100 g) sugar. Place a strainer over the bowl and sift the sweet rice, millet and oat flours with the baking powder and salt directly into the yolk mixture, adding back any bits left behind in the strainer. Whisk until very smooth.
In the clean, dry bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar on medium-high speed until soft peaks form. Slowly add the remaining 2 tablespoons (20 g) sugar and whip until the whites are glossy and just hold a firm peak when lifted from the bowl, 1–3 more minutes.
Use a flexible silicone spatula to fold one-third of the whites into the batter, then gently fold in the remaining whites until just combined and no streaks remain. Immediately pour the batter into the prepared pan and quickly but gently use an offset spatula to spread the batter into a thin, even layer. Transfer to the oven and bake until the cake is golden, springs back to the touch and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean, 40–50 minutes. Remove to a rack and let cool completely in the pan. Loosen the edges with a thin knife or offset spatula, and invert the cake onto a rack or board. Peel away the parchment paper.
The cake can be made a day or two in advance and stored airtight at room temperature until needed.
VARIATIONS
CITRUS CHIFFON CAKE
Use this as the base for the Citrus Trifle with Lillet Sabayon, or serve slices dressed up with fresh berries and whipped cream and dusted with powdered sugar for an elegant teatime treat.
Place the ½ cup (100 g) sugar in a large bowl. Add the finely grated zest from 1 Meyer lemon, 1 blood orange (or small regular orange) and 1 tangerine and rub with your fingertips until the sugar feels moist. Proceed with the recipe, omitting the vanilla extract.
COCONUT FLOUR CHIFFON CAKE
Coconut flour makes a sweet, springy cake with a touch of texture. It’s super absorbent, hence the higher water content of this cake. To make this into a Triple Coconut Rum “Tres Leches” Cake with Mango and Lime, bake the cake in an 8- or 9-inch (20- or 23-cm) square baking dish with 2-inch (5-cm) sides lined with parchment paper on the bottom only until it springs back to the touch and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 40–50 minutes, and proceed with the recipe here.
Increase the water to ¾ cup (175 ml). Omit the flours and make the cake with ⅓ cup (50 g) sweet white rice flour, ⅓ cup (40 g) coconut flour and ¼ cup (30 g) millet flour.
NOTE: This cake can also be baked in a 9-inch (23-cm) round pan or an 8-inch (20-cm) square pan for thinner cakes. Reduce the baking time as needed.
ROSY RHUBARB ROULADE CAKE
{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
Rolled cakes (sometimes called Swiss rolls or jelly rolls) used to intimidate me until I learned the secret to preventing cracking: roll the warm cake up in a clean tea towel to help set its shape, then spread it with all manner of goodies and roll it up. When sliced, the pinwheels of color are so pleasing to look at, and it’s much easier than making a layer cake. Feel free to go wild with the fillings: brush the cake with liqueur and spread with preserves, w
hipped cream and chopped fresh fruit. I’ve included a few favorite variations below.
This version gets a rosy filling of pink rhubarb puree. Along with airy sponge cake and rose water–infused crème fraîche, it is the prettiest dessert for a Mother’s Day brunch, springtime birthday or high tea.
MAKES ONE 12-INCH (30-CM) LONG ROLLED CAKE, 10–12 SERVINGS
ROLLED CHIFFON CAKE
¼ cup (60 ml) sunflower oil (or other neutral oil)
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90 ml) water
3 large egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla extract
½ cup plus 2 tbsp (120 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (55 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (40 g) oat flour
¼ cup (40 g) millet flour
2 tbsp (11 g) tapioca flour
1¼ tsp (6 g) baking powder
½ tsp fine sea salt
5 large egg whites (½ cup plus 2 tbsp [150 ml]), at room temperature
¼ tsp cream of tartar
¼ cup (25 g) powdered sugar
FILLING
⅓ cup (80 ml) Crème Fraîche
¼ cup (60 ml) heavy whipping cream Seeds from ½ vanilla bean (or ½ tsp vanilla extract)
1 tbsp (12 g) organic granulated cane sugar
½ tsp rose water (or more to taste)
1¼ cups (297 ml) Rhubarb Puree, chilled
Powdered sugar, for dusting
To make the cake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Line a 12 by 17–inch (30 by 43–cm) ungreased rimmed baking sheet with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit.
In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, water, egg yolks and vanilla, then whisk in the ½ cup (100 g) sugar. Place a strainer over the bowl and sift the sweet rice, oat, millet and tapioca flours with the baking powder and salt directly into the yolk mixture, adding back any bits left behind in the strainer. Whisk until very smooth.
In the clean, dry bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar on medium-high speed until soft peaks form. Slowly add the remaining 2 tablespoons (20 g) sugar and whip until the whites are glossy and just hold a firm peak when lifted from the bowl, 1–3 more minutes. Use a flexible silicone spatula to fold one-third of the whites into the batter to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining whites until just combined and no streaks remain.
Immediately pour the batter onto the prepared baking sheet, and quickly but gently use an offset spatula to spread the batter into a thin, even layer. Rap the pan on the counter once or twice to pop any large air bubbles. Transfer to the oven and bake until the cake is golden on top, pulls away from the sides of the pan and feels fairly firm when you press the top gently with the pads of your fingers, 18–22 minutes.
Working quickly, dust the top of the cake with the powdered sugar and loosen it from the sides of the pan using a small offset spatula or knife. Place a large, clean kitchen towel over the cake and top with a second baking sheet or large cutting board. Wearing oven mitts, grab the whole thing and flip it over. Remove the hot pan and carefully peel away the parchment paper. Trim away ¼ inch (6 mm) from each edge of the cake, and roll up the cake with the towel; this will help set the shape and the steam will keep it moist and pliant. You can either roll the cake from a short end for a fatter roll (as shown here) or from a long end for a skinnier roll. Either way, let the cake hang out in its towel roll until mostly cool, about 1 hour.
To make the filling, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, combine the crème fraîche, heavy cream, vanilla seeds, sugar and rose water. Whip on medium-high speed until the mixture holds firm peaks. (Err on the side of overwhipping so the cake will hold its shape when rolled.) Taste, adding more rose water if you like. Cover and chill until needed.
Leaving a 1-inch (2.5-cm) border, spread the rhubarb puree evenly over the cake. Dollop the whipped crème fraîche over the rhubarb and spread into an even layer. Re-roll the cake up into a log the same way it was rolled before (but without the towel this time), ending with the seam down. Use a wide spatula or two to transfer the cake to a board. For the cleanest slices, cover the cake and chill until firm, at least 30 minutes and up to 1 day.
When ready to serve, dust the cake with a little more powdered sugar and slice into rounds. The cake will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.
VARIATIONS
APRICOT CRÈME FRAÎCHE ROULADE
Omit the rhubarb puree and spread the cake with 1 cup (235 ml) good apricot jam. Omit the rose water from the whipped crème fraîche and proceed with the recipe.
STRAWBERRY ELDERFLOWER ROULADE
Elderflower liqueur, such as St-Germain, adds sweetness and nectar-like floral notes to this cake that offsets tangy berries. If you don’t have any on hand, use an orange liqueur such as Cointreau in its place, or leave it out altogether. And feel free to use other berries or diced poached quince in place of the strawberries.
Omit the rhubarb puree. Hull 2 cups (240 g) ripe strawberries and cut them into a small dice. Whip the cream, omitting the rose water. Brush the cake with ¼ cup (60 ml) elderflower liqueur, spread with the whipped crème fraîche, sprinkle the berries over the cream and roll up.
COCONUT CREAM ROULADE {DAIRY-FREE}
Omit the cream and crème fraîche. Place a 13.5-ounce (400 ml) can of full-fat coconut milk (such as Thai Kitchen brand) in the refrigerator for 12–24 hours, until solid. Without tipping or shaking the can, remove the lid and scoop the solidified cream at the top into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, leaving behind the watery liquid at the bottom of the can. Whip on medium-high speed until thickened, then add 2 tablespoons (12 g) powdered sugar and ½ teaspoon vanilla extract (or a few drops of rose water, to taste) and continue whipping until the mixture holds firm peaks, like whipped cream. You should have about 1 cup (115 g). Use this in place of the whipped cream/crème fraîche in any of the variations.
NOTE: This cake base is a variation of the chiffon cake on with a few tweaks to make it conducive to rolling.
BLUEBERRY LEMON VERBENA BUNDT CAKE WITH VANILLA BEAN GLAZE
{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
To me, fresh lemon verbena smells like happiness—bright, citrusy and floral. The leaves make a tasty tisane when brewed in hot water, or they can be added to custards or cocktails. Here, they perfume a buttery pound cake studded with blueberries and a few scrapes of lemon zest. Once you’ve tried it, you may start noticing it growing in backyards, and sneaking handfuls when no one’s looking. But don’t let the hard-to-find herb stop you from making this cake; you can leave it out and still have a happy Bundt.
Cream cheese is the magic ingredient that makes for a moist pound cake dense enough to keep the berries aloft. Be sure to thoroughly grease the crevices of the Bundt pan with a pastry brush dipped in butter softened to the texture of mayonnaise, and dust it thoroughly with flour, tapping out the excess. This will ensure a Bundt that releases easily from the pan every time. This recipe can also be baked in two standard-size loaf pans lined with parchment.
MAKES ONE 10-INCH (25-CM) BUNDT CAKE, 12–16 SERVINGS
CAKE
1 cup (226 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus 2 tbsp (30 g) for the pan
¾ cup (85 g) GF oat flour, plus 2 tbsp (25 g) for the pan
6 oz (¾ cup [175 g]) cream cheese, softened
1 cup (210 g) organic granulated cane sugar
Finely grated zest from 2 large lemons
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1½ cups (235 g) sweet white rice flour
½ cup (70 g) millet flour
¼ cup (30 g) tapioca flour/starch
1 tbsp (12 g) baking powder
1 tsp fine sea salt
2½ cups (340 g) fresh blueberries
⅓ cup (17 g) chopped fresh lemon verbena leaves
GLAZE
1 cup (120 g) powdered sugar
Seeds from 1 van
illa bean
2–4 tbsp (30–60 ml) lemon juice (or enough to make a drizzle-able glaze)
Tiny lemon verbena leaves and extra blueberries, for garnish (optional)
To make the cake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Use a pastry brush dipped in the 2 tablespoons (30 g) soft butter to grease a 10-cup (10-inch [25-cm]) Bundt pan thoroughly. Sprinkle the pan with 2 tablespoons (25 g) oat flour and tap and shake the pan to coat it evenly, rapping it on the counter to release excess flour.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl with your arm and a wooden spoon), cream together the remaining 1 cup (226 g) butter, cream cheese, sugar and lemon zest on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3–4 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing to combine after each addition, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. The mixture may look broken or curdled; this is okay, as it will come together in the next step.
Meanwhile, sift together the remaining ¾ cup (85 g) oat, sweet rice, millet and tapioca flours with the baking powder and salt into a medium bowl. With the mixer on low, stir the flour mixture into the butter mixture until just thoroughly combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Remove the bowl from the mixer, add the blueberries and lemon verbena, and use a flexible silicone spatula to fold gently to combine, scraping the bottom and sides of the bowl to make sure the batter is homogenous. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top, tapping the pan a few times on the counter to settle it into the pan’s crevices and release any large air pockets.
Bake the cake until the top is lightly golden and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean, or with a few moist crumbs, 55–65 minutes. Let the cake cool slightly, then invert a large plate or platter over the pan, grasp the whole thing and flip it over, tapping it on the counter a few times. The cake should release easily from the pan. Let the cake cool completely.